After a second day of driving and the weather not looking too clever, we decide to stay in a campsite in the hills just outside Nice. It’s a pretty simple place but has all we need and gives us the chance to set up the new improved base camp for the first time. With our giant (ish) gazebo, we manage to set up our luxurious camp in about an hour, much quicker than with the drive away awning. This makes Andy happy. I’m hoping that it isn’t tested too much by rain……we will just have to see.
As we didn’t manage to do a supermarche sweep en route and the contents of the home fridge could only stretch to an omelette, we decided to head out for dinner. Andy gets onto trip advisor and discovers that there is only one place open for dinner on a Tuesday evening. “It’s only 2km away” he says, “we can walk”. So off we head, up the road from the campsite which has the suspicious air of a series of switch backs. After a few minutes of up hill strolling, we spot a village perched on the hillside. The only sign of civilisation in view. “Do you think that is where the restaurant is?” I ask. “Well, it is next to the church and that’s the only one around” comes the reply.
Moments later, there is a path heading off the road up the hillside. It is signposted to the village and heading straight up hill. Off we trot. Up hill. On a path, not a road. No bicycles with peddles to push round. Very warm and muggy. Very sweaty. Up, up, up. Quite a narrow, reasonably trodden, unmade path, with occasional attempts at man made steps. “Are we nearly there yet?” “Let’s just wait a minute” “We should have cycled!”
Eventually we make it to the top, passing a property perched on the side of the hill with amazing views down the valley to a cobbled area and entrance to a village.
Peillon is an unspoilt medieval village with no roads and a network of staired walkways between buildings. There is almost no-one around, it is eerily quiet and Andy is in need of a beer.
We locate the restaurant which is part of a hotel (http://www.auberge-madone-peillon.com/en/) and although early for the evening dinner sitting, enjoy a cold beer on the terrace enjoying the view from where we have climbed. Just after 7.30pm we are allowed in the restaurant and get to choose from a 40, 55 or 60 Euro set menu. A far cry from the omelette alternative, but when in Rome?!
Lush caramelised onion on toast, tapenade on a crostini as teasers; tempura courgette flowers; fois gras on a bed of buttery spring greens on proper french puff pastry; rack of lamb with the smoothest mash potato and fresh strawberries nestling on whipped cream puffs on a light biscuit / sponge like base with a few rhubarb shards and amber coloured petals for added fragrance. Nom, nom. Accompanied of course by some delicious red wine. Syrah based yumminess from nearby Provence. Happy taste buds, happy tummies.
Having temporarily forgotten the potentially treacherous walk home – straight down or meandering down the switchbacks on the road (we were armed with torches for this eventuality), the maitre-de asked if we were staying at the campsite and that he could drop us off on his way home. Suddenly, the unexpected deliciousness of the meal, hard earned from the sweaty walk up the mountain was topped off by the generously provided lift and Andy not needing to use his cycling legs for that walking stuff again.
A wonderful first proper night of hols. 🙂
And now we’re getting to test base camp in the rain 🌧 ☔️ !
Meanderings in Merfyn 